Embracing Slow Travel in the Enchanting Heart of the Dolomites
Tucked into the northeastern corner of Italy, the Dolomites are more than just dramatic peaks and world-class ski resorts. Beyond the well-trodden paths and glitzy chalets lies a string of hidden gems — small alpine villages where the pace of life slows, the traditions run deep, and nature remains gloriously untamed. Over the course of a ten-day journey, I immersed myself in this quieter side of the Dolomites, traveling slowly, eating locally, and taking in the rhythm of daily life in places often overlooked by hurried visitors.
Slow travel, at its core, is about connection — with landscapes, with locals, and with the cultural identity of a place. The Dolomites, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their geological and cultural significance, prove ideal for this style of travel. As I wandered through sleepy lanes and sunlit alpine pastures, I found it wasn’t just about reaching the next destination, but about savoring each moment along the way.
Funes (Villnöss): A Valley Embraced by Peaks
My journey began in the Valle di Funes, also known by its German name Villnöss, a serene valley flanked by the striking Odle/Geisler mountain group. As I arrived in the tiny village of Santa Maddalena, a pastel-hued bell tower rising against jagged limestone peaks, it felt like stepping into a postcard.
This village, home to less than 400 residents, is famed for its iconic church, Chiesetta di Santa Maddalena, one of the most photographed scenes in the Dolomites. But beyond the picture-perfect view, there’s something profound in its simplicity. I stayed in a family-run guesthouse where breakfast included homemade jams and fresh speck prepared only meters away.
While hiking the Adolf Munkel Trail at the foot of the Odle peaks, I encountered more cows than people, crossed larch forests radiant in autumn gold, and paused at rustic mountain huts like the Gschnagenhardt Alm, where I enjoyed a hot bowl of kaspressknödel (cheese dumpling soup). Conversations with local shepherds revealed the Ladin heritage still rooted strong in the valley’s identity.
La Val: A Sanctuary of Ladin Culture
Nestled within the Alta Badia region, La Val is a lesser-known village that places cultural sustainability at the heart of tourism. With its designation as the first “Slow Tourism Municipality” in the Dolomites, La Val exemplifies how traditions and sustainable travel can co-exist.
Here, rustic farmhouses sit comfortably on green slopes, often built from larch and spruce in the same manner as centuries ago. I joined a guided walk along the Tru di Pra — the path of the meadows — that winds through ancient hayfields dotted with wooden barns. The meadows here are still hand-cut every summer during fienagione, the traditional hay harvest, which forms a social event for the whole village.
In the evening, I sat down in Agriturismo Ciablun, a working farmstead offering hearty Ladin dishes like turtres (spinach and ricotta turnovers) and panicia (barley soup with smoked pork). Conversations ebbed and flowed between Italian, German, and Ladin — the tri-lingual reality of South Tyrol that gives the Dolomites its unique cultural depth.
Sottoguda: A Village at the Mouth of a Gorge
Continuing eastward, I reached the enchanting village of Sottoguda, located at the entrance to the dramatic Serrai di Sottoguda gorge. Often bypassed by those heading straight to Marmolada, the highest peak of the Dolomites, here was a village that felt timeless.
Stone and wooden houses, dating back centuries, line the narrow lanes. Every window seems to cradle flower boxes that overflow with red geraniums in summer. Local artisans still practice traditional forge work; I met Matteo, a blacksmith in his fifties, who showed me how generations of his family have crafted iron bells and tools since the 19th century.
A morning walk through the Serrai di Sottoguda — a narrow gorge with waterfalls tumbling past moss-covered rock — feels almost cinematic, especially in spring or autumn when the tourist crowds are minimal. In winter, the gorge transforms into an ice-climber’s dreamscape.
Val di Zoldo: A Land of Ancient Routes and Gelato Heritage
If you’ve ever eaten a traditional Italian gelato in Paris or Vienna, chances are the recipe traces its lineage to Val di Zoldo. This secluded valley has a distinct history: it was once home to the itinerant gelatieri, who, when work was scarce, brought their craft to cities across Europe.
The main village, Forno di Zoldo, retains a strong connection to this past. At the Gelato Museum in Zoldo Alto, I learned how generations of families passed down recipes, with entire households migrating each summer alongside their frozen goods. Even today, local families maintain this legacy, and I had one of the best pistachio gelati I’ve ever tasted at Gelateria De Pellegrin — a small, unassuming shop that still makes gelato the old-fashioned way.
Beyond gelato, the valley is an outdoor enthusiast’s haven. I hiked sections of the Alta Via 1 — Italy’s premier high-mountain trail — and spent a quiet night in Rifugio Coldai, where the only sounds came from wind-whipped clouds and cowbells in the distance. It felt like the world had slowed down with me.
Practical Tips for Slow Traveling Through the Dolomites
- Timing: Visit in shoulder seasons — late spring or early autumn — for ideal weather, fewer crowds, and vibrant natural colors.
- Transport: Rentals offer the most freedom, but regional buses connect most villages during tourist seasons. Cycling is increasingly popular with e-bike rentals widely available.
- Where to Stay: Opt for agriturismi (rural farm stays) or family-run guesthouses where you can engage with locals and learn about the area’s heritage.
- What to Pack: Weather in the Dolomites can be unpredictable. Bring layers, sturdy hiking shoes, and a reusable water bottle to take advantage of the many natural springs.
- Food and Drink: Sample regional specialties including speck, polenta, alpine cheeses, and locally brewed craft beers. Always reserve dinner in advance in small villages where restaurants are limited.
Savoring the Dolomites at a Gentle Pace
Traveling slowly through the Dolomites allowed me to witness a side of northern Italy typically hidden from glossy travel brochures. It was a journey full of early-morning fog rolling through quiet meadows, of elderly villagers greeting strangers with a hearty “Grüß Gott,” of sharing polenta with foragers who spoke of lunar cycles and wild herbs.
From Funes to Val di Zoldo, the villages of the Dolomites offered more than scenic views — they revealed deeply rooted cultures, intimate relationships with nature, and a welcome reminder to pause, breathe, and travel with intention.